Crevasse Rescue Systems Practice

Given the recent Snow Skills and then Knots events, a good next step is to focus in on practicing the traditional/beginner 3:1 and/or modern/intermediate 6:1 rescue systems in a practical but safe environment (preferably the North Slabs at the Mountaineers Program Center). This event assumes attendees are familiar with steep snow skills and basic mountaineering knots (alpine butterfly, Prusik hitch, figure-eight, etc). Due to the location, we will not be practicing on snow anchors but it will be a point of discussion.

ATTENDENCE:
Due to the location, space for the event is limited. Initially, everyone will be put on the waitlist. You MUST answer the questions if you wish to be added from the waitlist. Priority will be based on responses to the RSVP question – please be honest so we can ensure a well-rounded group.

RSVP ETIQUETTE:
Since we have limited space we ask that you be considerate of others and commit to your RSVP. Your no-show may prevent someone else from attending and you from attending other limited events like this.

REQUIRED GEAR:
General:

• Ice Axe
• Harness
• Helmet
• Warm/waterproof layers including gloves and warm boots – the location is outdoors and we’ll likely be standing around a lot in the cold.

Glacier Rack (links to recommendations and more info here):

Glacier Rack (links to recommendations and more info here):

• 1 triple-action locking carabiner (OR 2 additional lockers or 1 additional locker and 1 non-locker)
• 4 locking carabiners
• 3 non-locking carabiners
• 2 Prusik loops
• 1 “Quad” length sling OR 8ft-20ft 6-7mm cordalette
• Tibloc OR 1 additional prusik
• Microtraxion/Spoc/similar OR a “PMP” prusik minding pulley
• Loaded Snow pickets (with mid clip +1 locking carabiner or sling +2 locking carabiners per picket. These are not counted in your glacier rack)

Optional (not required for this event, but recommended for your own glacier travel):

• Alpine ATC with “guide mode”
• 2 “Double” length slings

Recommended:

• Thermos with hot soup or beverage
• Foam sit or sleeping pad

Group Gear:

• 2-4 30-60m length, 8mm+ diameter dynamic, dry-treated rope
• **Please let me know if you have a practice rope you are willing to bring

APPROXIMATE ITINERARY:
10am – Meet at Mountaineers wall

• Introductions and divide into teams
• “Rack Up” and rope preparation
• Demo of rescue system
• Each team practices rescue system (each member should have a chance to run the rescue)
• Possible second demo including a “partner” rescue

4pm – Wrap up. Possibly head to Magnusson brewing for food and a debrief

IMPORTANT:
Climbing is inherently dangerous – you and you alone are responsible for your own safety. Please know your abilities before signing up. Participation is voluntary – you attend at your own risk and Organizers are indemnified.